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Kristal Diamonds President Princcetta TM |
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Kristal Diamonds' team of jewel designers have
produced a unique engagement ring which is set by 2 centre
diamonds "The PrinceTM cut and the Princess
cut"
The
exclusivity of this ring is by combining a square diamond
and an oblong one. The PrinceTM cut
which is presented by Kristal
Diamonds is an improvement to the traditional emerald cut
diamond and it is a result of a long research process. Its
advantage is by producing even higher levels of sparkle and
fire effects and a complete vision of the kaleldoscope which
appears when you manipulate the stone towards light.
The
Prince cut benefits from 111 facets instead of the ordinary
58 facets in the traditional emerald cut. The facets were
placed professionally at the right points and angels resulting
in a sparking and lively appearance.
The
Princess cut which was also developed after a long research
and optical exercise offers the unique combination between
a polished diamond and a square diamond, resulting in the
full fire, life and sparkle which are visible from any possible
angle without having any dark areas. |
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The ring was developed by using a special 3D design
software which combines in an optimal way the square and the ablong
diamonds set in one ring . Hence, the motto of "When the prince
met the princess" is combined within this special ring.
Kristal Diamonds
have registered the name "Princcetta TM which is the English
combination of the Prince and Princess cut.
Mr, I.M Kristal, owner and partner of Kristal Diamonds,
explains how he thoughts about this saphisticated idea: "The
idea about creating a ring which will combine the 2 types about creating
a ring which will combine the 2 types of polishing was born in my
mind, when I saw Prince William and his royal spouse Kate standing
in front of the public balcony of Buckingham palace minutes after
their impressive marriage ceremony. I thought to myself "How
can I commemorate this historical moment?" The combination of
the Prince and Princess is the right and long lasting answer.
Kristal
Diamonds was formed in 1983. A family owned company, their main activity
is production and commerce in diamonds and fine jewellery. The ownn
ideas or to match the customer's order. The company uses the latest
technology which is activated by a prefesstional learn yielding top
quality products. |
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De Beers' to Stimulate Diamond Sales |
Underscoring the importance it places on
diamond branding. De Beers Group
has announced a "major investment" in
advertising for the Christmas-New Year trading period.
One campaign, entitled it's a Long Journey
Become the One , promotes the company's Forevermark
brand, with the overall message said highlighy the
"rigorous selection process" of a Foreevermark
diamond , Spanning a range of advertising mediums,
the campaign includes a short advertising mediums,
the campaign includes a short film-style television
commercial, print advertisements as well as social
media promotion using the hashtag# The one. It also
marks the return of the Iconic 'A diamond is foreover
slogan.
In addition, the company will launch a
separate marketing campaign, Seize the Day, to generate
increased consumer demand for the diamond jewellery
category over the Christmas season. It will feature
"classic" diamond products such as solitaire
rings and necklaces.
While the initiative includes some De Beers
branding. It's essentially a generic marketing strategy.
which could be considered interesting given De Beers
ceased its generic diamond advertising and marketing
in 2000.
De Beers Seize the Day campaign will target
men purchasing diamond jewellery as gift for partners
in two of the world's largest markets, the US and
China. A Company spokesperson said the campaign
would begin in late November in the US and run across
print and digital as well as in areas such as a
transport hubs and billboards in "select high-impact
markets".
'This campaign
will also include the 'A diamond is forever' slogan,
and it will also include used to have a sign-off
from De Beers," The spokesperson said.
'We are
delight to add these new initiatives to our existing
Foreevermark activities over the holiday season.
"De Beers chief executive Philippe Meller commented.
"This will help to stimulate doanstream demand
for polished diamonds and create renewed momentum
in the diamond sector at a crucial point in the
year."
De Beers has long been championing branding
and advertising as two areas of which the diamond
industry needs to take advantage. De Beers CEO Phillippe
Meller last year said he believed branding represented
a "huge opportunity" for the grownth of
the diamond industry.
"An increase in the number of emotionally
significant branded products in the diamond retail
sector has the potential to provide the oxygen for
a new age of prospetty and grownth in the industry,
in the same way that clothes, accessories and fragrannces
have experienced flourishing demand as a result
of brand compettition, "he saiod"
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Good
trade at DDC Israel Diamond Week |
The fourth Israel Diamond Week saw around
100 Israel bouse members visiting the trading floor at the Diamond
Dealers Club of New York (DDC). Business was said to be quite
brisk, with flexible priing being a catalyst for successful deals.
However, one source commented that "there are always buyers
who want goods on the memo and wha expect unreasonable discounts.
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Israel traders noted that were new was healthy demand
for large stones, and typical "American" commercial
goods, ofeten retail jewel staples, traded beyond expectations.
Reuben Kaufmen, president
of the DDC, said at the opening ceremony that although the global
diamond market is not performing well., there are positive signs
in the US market and economy that are a cause for optimism for
a successful holiday season. |
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3.09
carat Lab-Grown Diamond |
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Diamond growers continue to be able to increase the size of
the stones they produce, as most recently was ilustrated by
a 3.09 carat diamond graded by HRD Antwerp.
The Diamond was grown using the CVD,
or chemical vapour deposition, process, meaning it was created
in a specially developed growing chamber using a carbon-rich
gas. CVD lab-grown diamond are created without the presence
of nitrogen, therefore the resulting stone will always be
a type lia or type lib diamond.
This diamond was grown using the
CVD, or chemical vapour deposition, process, meaning it was
created in a specially developed growing chamber using a carbon-rich
gas. CVD lab-grown diamond are created without the presence
of nitrogen, therefore the resulting stone will always be
a type lia or type lib diamond. |
This particular 3.09 carat stone is a brillant-cut
diamond with a grade of slightly tinted white (1) and a clarity
of VS2, the lab said.
Previously, the largest lab-grown diamond
reported was a nearly colourless 3.04 carat round diamond cultivated
by Pure Grown Diamonds (formerly Gemesis) late last year. That diamond
has a price tag of $23,012.
Lab-grown diamonds have become more and
more typical in industry news in the past few years, as growers
have improved their techniques, particularly as it pertain to while
diamonds, and more mainstream chairs have started selling them.
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Diamond Screening Services in Shanghai |
Diamond Services will begin offering
lab-grown screening services in Shanghai following the Instilation
of a mini Raman spectrometer at state-owned gem lab NGGC.
The spectrometer is able to accurately
detect HPHT and CVD lab-grown diamonds and HPHT colour-treated
diamonds, as well as diamond simulants.
"Our goal is to expand the
servicea being provided by NGGC by providing definitive
and rapid confirmation as to whether a diamond is synthetic
or not," said Joseph Kuzi, Diamond is synthetic or
not," said Joseph Kuzi, Diamond Services' founder and
president, "Chinese traders will no longer have to
withdraw suspect goods from circulation for lengthy period
of time, before they can be examined properly using the
appropriate equipment. At NGGCC we will be able to examine
a stone immediately, and provide a final decision."
The desktop-sized mini Raman
spectrometer can test both mounted and non-mounted stones,
and deliver its results in an easy-to-read and interpret
format.
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Rising
Inventory Hopeful Expectations
By Avi Krawitz |
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As always, there's an air of anticipation ahead of the holiday
season, even if diamond trading is well below levels usually
associated with this time of year. Diamond dealers expect
that positive U.S. economic trends will raise consumer confidence
to spend and influence jewellers to place stronger orders
in 2016. Furthermore, recently announced marketing campaigns
by Signet Jewelers and De Beers Forevermark have raised
expectations that the season will at least exceed 2014's
lacklustre performance. That's the good news. But as De
Beers acknowledged in a note to sightholders. "Where
we have traditionally seen a firming up of polished diamond
demand as anticipate potential for the same this year as
our additional marketing spend gains traction with consumers,
we fully appreaciate that the midstream continues to face
challengers".
Certainly, polished trading was
quiet for October with demand largely geared to filling
orders rather than building Inventory. Dearlers explained
that stead U.S. demand on its own is not sufficient to boost
trading or to fully compensive for the slowdown in China.
Expectations that Asia Pacific Trading might improve after
the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair faded in
the weeks that followed as demand from the region's major
retailers continued to be reserved.
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Chow Tai Fook noted that
retail market sentiment was unimpressive as the group's gem-set
jewellery same-stone sales slis 13 percent during its fiscal quarter
that ended September 30. Furthermore, jewellery sales in general
were weak
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Italian
Gardens Inspire Bulgari's New Collection |
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From the Belvedere in the Vatican to Villa
d'Este in Tivoli and the Boboli Gardens in Fiorence, Italian gardens
are imbused with Renaissance traditions, bending nature to create
works of art. For its latest collection , Bulgari found inspiration
in the geometric precision and architectural complexity of these
gardens to bring out their most evocative elements using precious
stones.
Like the Renaissance
architects, Bulgari's designers took nature not as a model to be
reproducted, but as an interlocutor with art. Named "Italian
Gardens," the 100 pieces collection emulates the artful decorative
boxwood hedges and flowerbeads that came to prominence during the
Renaissance, as gardens were tamed and their contours redefined
transforming nature into "a work born of man" with and
artistically arranged flowerbeds and trees and shrubs pruned to
create evergreen 'sculptures'.
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The designs of these
Renaissance gardens is most evidant in the Geometry of Time
watches that Incorporate geomatric marquetry of mother of
pearl, diamonds, and semi-adaptable necklace can be separated
into a brooch and worn with or without the tassel. Fountains
also inspired the Water Symphony necklace which sports a central
45.57 carat sapphire surrounded by flowing ribbons of diamonds,
another transformable piece that forms a bracelet and brooch.
Colourful flowers were another
main strand of inspiration for this collection, which uses
rubellite, tanzanite, citrine, amethyst, and aquamarine to
create flamboyant Pop Art flowers, befiting the Bulgari brand's
bold style.
Paying tribute to
Renaissance master Sandro Botticelli's Allegory of Spring.
Bulgari has also recreated a vintage 1969 piece, using diamonds,
pearls, and coral an yellow gold to create a stunning margueritte
necklace , with the brilliant diamond centre brought to life
thanks to an 'en tremblant setting. |
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Etourdissant : Cartier's Dazzling Display |
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Last month, in an extraordinary villa in Cap d'Antibes,
South of France, Cartier's new high jewellery collection
Etourdissant (literally "dazzling" or "stunning")
was displayed across several airy rooms, along with examples
of the maison's fine jewellery and archival pieces.
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HIgh jewellery is supposed to be particularly
special - one of a kind pieces that pay tritute to a
maison's heritage but are entirely singular and never
to be repeated. The Etourdissant collection couldn't
be more true to the concept. Rather than running with
a motif, Cartier has simply taken the most dazzing materials
and created mesmerisingly beautiful jewels. The belle
of this ball was the a Romanov bracelet, a diamond cuff
sporting a colossal 197.80 carat cushion -being worn
by the become the Empress of Russia. One of Cartier's
press got to see it, meaning this important stone will
soon disappear again into private - and very fortunale
- hands.
A transformable Hyderabad piece, which
can be worn as a bracelet or choker, as well as a super
luxurious take on the bohemian forehead-wrapping headband,
came in the iconic Tutti-Fruitti stones - carved emeralds
at its centre. This mix of colourful stones was seen
in other shades, like in the Pushkar earrings, which
blended carved garnets of orange and green with purple
tanzanites and diamonds helmed by two smooth black opals,
cabochon cut and set in white gold and diamonds. |
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A
particular type of coral appeared across two large
bracelets and rings. The Flamboyant cuff pitched this
reddy-orange material against black onyx and white
diamonds, while the Teinte bracelet blended it with
milky green chrysoprase and onyx - the mix of red
and green a particullar hallmark of the masion.
That
Iconic knot, seen of Cartier since its earliest days,
appeared in the Garance necklace, a boldly proportioned
piece blending rubies from Mozambique and Burma with
diamonds, styled as though casually knotted at the
throat.
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But it wasn't all about the four most precious gemstones:
diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald. There were exquisite examples
where the starring gem was a pale, glowing opal from Ethopia, as
in the Ete Indien bracelet, surrounded by swirls of garnets, tsavorite,
coloured sapphires and diamonds, all picking up the delicate nuances
of colour within the central stone. The Arabica bracelet didn't
even have a large gem as a centre-piece - instead, it featured dozens
of elongated piece - instead. It featured dozen of elongated garnet
beads in a pale shade of cranberry, tipped garnet beads in a pale
shade of chanberry, tipped with diamond and ruby beads and arranged
on an articulated cuff of brown and white diamonds.
It's to
cartier's credit that its craftmen can create these extraordinary
pieces out of such an array of material - from huge, important sapphires
with a royal past, to tiny garnet beads named for the coffee beans
their shape evokes. |
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East
Meets West for High Art
By Phyllis Schller |
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A
magical meldind of east and west, tutti frutti jewellery artfully
incorporated the textual coloured gemstones of Magul jewelllery
artfully incorporated the textural coloured gemstones of Magul jewellery
into a variation on the Art Deco theme, introduced by Cartier at
the Paris exposition of 1925. The rich and fashion-forward of the
day gravitated to this exuberant style, decorated with what were
called pierres de couleur of coloured stones. The term "tutil
frutti" was coined later, believed to be based on the colourful
costume worn by Carmen Miranda when she sang "The Lady in the
Tutti Frutti Hat" in the 1943 movie, "The Gang's All Here."
As the popularity of the style increased,
so did the number of makers, including, so did the number of makers,
including Van Cleef & Arpels and Mauboussin, points out Janet
Levy, principal, J, & S.S. DeYoung, Inc., New York City, in
America, Raymont C. Yard and Charlton & Co., among others, made
fine jewels in this style. "Tutti frutti became a style that
appealed to jewellers," says jewel historian Janet Zapata,
But, she says, "Cartier did it best,"
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Indian Influence
In 1901, Pierre Cartier was commissioned by Queen
Alexandra of England to design a necklace for her to wear with three
Indian gowns that she received as a gift from Mary Curzon, the wife
of the Viceroy of India. In 1911, a trip to india introduced Jacques
Cartier, who oversaw the firm's London branch, to the beauty of
Mogul jewellery's richly hued engraved rubies and emeralds in the
shapes of leaves, blossoms and berries. And the rest is jewel design
history.
"After the First World War, people were
ready to enjoy themselves during the Roaring Twentties," explains
Levy, who says most of the tutti frutti jewellery she sees dates
from 1925 to 1930, "During this period, Indian maharajahs were
travelling to Paris to have their jewels refashioned. This inspired
Cartier and other jewellers to create new pieces using carved rubies
and emeralds in vibant and expressive designs."
Ann Lange, senior vice president, executive director,
jewel department, Doyle New York, points out. "The Indian custom
was that when you pass jewellery down to the next generation, you
remake it. And this is how Cartier started working with the carved
coloured stones."
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Something Different
Before tutti frutti, continues Lange, jewellery
was very geometric and more predictable in design. "This new
style had a certain exoticism. it represented a little bit of a
rebellion. The combination and cut of gems made an impact, adding
another dimension."
"Worn by very wealthy, very stylish women,
the tutti frutti jewellery always had a cachet, it made a statement,"
says Zapata, It was something different from the very flat and recttinear
early Art Deco. "There are coloured gemstones that are leaves,
berries etc., that give it a dimensionally and a dimensionally andva
different colour palette than what had gone before,"
In addition to an exuberant use of colour, says
Carol Elkins, senior vice president, Sotheby's jewellery department,
it is the artful designs of these multigem jewels, along with the
excellent craftmanship, that make the style so desired by collectors
today. "No two are alike. The layouts for the bracelets were
metlculous worked on, painstakingly for hours at a time. The variations
in colour schemes - whethers predominantly rubies and emeralds,
or a combination of rubies, sapphires, emeralds and onyx-each has
its own apeal. The partterns and motifs drew upon a rich heritage
of Indian and fair Eastern design elements from centuries past.
These jewels are symbols of status and refined taste."
Most descriptions of the stones use the word
"carved" but, explains Zapata. "they are emgraved,
the gems chosen more for their hues than value." it's not the
sum of the parts but the artisty of the whole that give them their
worth, in the same way point andcanvas don't command millions until
used by a master to create a work of art. |
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A Lasting Appeal
The
popularity of the jewellery has continued through the decades
and people are willing to pay a premium price to own it. At
Sotheby's New York in 2014, Evelyn Lauder's Cartier tutti
frutti bracelet achieved a record $2.1 million. This past
April, a pair of Art Deco tutti frutti earclips by Cartier
sold for $185,000 at Doyle New York, more than three times
the presale high estimate.
"The
prices have certainly been amazing," says Lange. One
reason, she says, is there's not that much of this jewellery
around, "Most of the pieces we've seen lately have been
held in families. And what motivates buyers to such a degree
is that they're fresh to the market. Moreover, the rarity
and importance of the Cartier name significantly increases
value and attracts global interest,"
Cartier
tutti frutti jewels do not appear in the market very often,
points out Elkins. "A finite number were made, while
the number of newly minted billionaires seeking such treasures
seems to be ever increasing. When comparing prices fetched
for certain categories of paintings, these rare jewels would
seem undervalued."
"Whenever
we get tutti frutti jewellery," says Levy, "We're
always excited about it. The intricacy of the design pulls
you in. It's really a high art form."
It's
an ageless style, sums up Zapata, "It will always have
appeal. Fifty years from now, whatever the prices are today,
add another zero."
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