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| Detection, corundum diamond cut focus of GIA Genfest Basel | ||
Detection
of synthetic diamonds is no longer a concern for the jewelry industry.
That was a key good-news message presented by Dr. James Shigley, director
of research forthe Gemological Institute of America, during GIA's GemFest
Basel, part of the BaselWorld 2005 trade fair. Synthetic diamonds first became a concern in 1970, when General Electric launched its first attempt at them, but the issue has com© to the foro again in the past few years with the advent of several new producers and an article touted synthetics on the cover of wired magazine. But there is no known commercial production of colourless synthetics, said Shigley. Furthermore, synthetic diamonds have a unique crystal morphology due to how they're grown in a laboratory. Their growth process produces a distinct colour zoning feature that gives the stones identifying characteristic. They also have a distinct graining pattern and sometimes have metallic inclusions left from the flux used in the growing process. In addition, diamonds produced by carbon vapor deposition don't pose a threat to the market, he said. To date, all specimens GIA has seen from CVD producer Apollo were under a carat, and the process produces light brown stones, requiring further (HPHT) treatment to lighten them. There may in the future be a joining of the two methods, whereby a CVD diamond is grown on a synthetic diamond substrate, but these stones would also be detectable, Shigley said. A greater concern is continued HPHT treatment of natural stones. The treatment used to be confined to Type II diamonds, but has now been expanded to Type I diamonds, the type that comprises 95% of the diamond market. With more people doing it, he said GIA is continually updating its research to keep up. Shane McClure, GIA's West Coast director of identification services, reviewed the current status of beryllium diffusion treatments of corundum but, more importantly, discussed a new fracture-filling treatment first seen late last year in some rubies from Madagascar. Since then, many of these stones have come into the market. Opaque to translucent, highly fractured rubiJ! are being infused with leaded glass, which has a very1 high refractive index and blends into the stone to make the nclusions less visible and the stone more saleable. Under magnification, one can see huge networks of fracturesir these stones. The treatment is reasonably durable again? normal processes like mounting and re-tipping, but ute exposed to a caustic solution such as that used for picklinc, it can remove or harm the glass filling. GIA president Bill Boyajian wrapped up GemFes! with a discussion of more elements of GIA's forthcommc diamond cut grade. GIA's system focuses on the interrelation of proportions to one another, not on any one sete' specific proportions. This, says Boyajian, allows cuttersli cater to different market tastes without penalizing a marke: by implying its preferred cut is a lesser cut. What makes GIA's system different from other a: grading systems is that appearance values are determine: both by computer and by observation, and within eact grade there are multiple sets of proportions that will yieic top results, he said. Boyajian also announced the nomenclature tote used to describe cut: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Far and Poor. He said GIA expects the bulk of stones submi: ted for grading will fall into the top three categories, bi that the bottom two may be needed from time to time. Ttif cut grading system will apply only to round brilliants, D: Z colour, flawless to 13. It will not apply to modified rour: brilliants or to fancy cuts or colours. GIA is creating software to assist dealers, man,-facturers, cutters, retailers, and appraisers with the system. A key part of its process is to view the diamond r controlled environment; e.g. in a light box, which has bee' developed and will be available from GIA's Gem Instrument division. |
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| Winners of the 14th Annual American Vision Awards Announced | ||
PROVIDENCE, RI-Manufacturing
Jewelers and Suppliers of America (MJSA) is pleased to announce the winners
of the 2005 American Vision Awards (AVAs)-MJSA's annual design competition
recognizing the talent and innovation of designers whose work is influencing
the future design trends in jewelry. The pieces were judged on originality,
creativity, presentation quality, effective use of materials, wearability,
and the design's perceived manufacturing and marketing potential. This year saw the addition of four new distinction categories-Silver Distinction, sponsored -- by The Silver Users Association; Mokume-gane Distinction, sponsored by Reactive Metals Studio and Shining Wave Metals; Reactive Metals Distinction, sponsored by Reactive Metals Studio, Cabot Supermetals, and Titanium Products Design Inc.; and CAD/CAM Distinction, sponsored by Model Master. Other distinction categories, in addition to the overall Professional and Student awards, include Platinum Distinction, sponsored by Platinum Guild International USA, and Crystal Distinction, sponsored by Swarovski North America. |
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1. Charles P. Bahringer of Bayside; 1st
CAD/CAM distinction, Platinum ring with four slabs of onyx and diamond
accents. 2. Titanium ring with diamonds (titanium is anodized aqua); 2nd place reactive metals distinction. 3. Chow Hartanti of Ihenna's Art in Duluth, Georgia; 1st place Crystal Distinction; Plower pattern necklace made with Swarovski crystals in fuchsia, olivine and clear colors. 4. H. James Kaya of Solair Jewelers in Boston, Massachusetts; 1st place platinum Distinction; Platinum tension-set ring with natural yellow sapphire and diamonds. 5. H. James Kaya of Solair Jewelers (www.jameskaya.com) in Boston, Massachusetts: 2nd place Professional Category; Platinum and 18k gold rubellite Pendant with diamonds. 6. Joan Dulla of Chandler, Arizona; 1st place; Reactive Metals Distinction; Hand crocheted and anodized nioblumwire necklace with Swarovski crystals. |
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7. Lee Krumbholz Jewelers in Cincinnati;
2nd place CAD/CAM Distinction; 18k white gold "flame" ring with
11.82 ct peridot and diamond. 8. Marie Scarpa of Marie Scarpa Designs in Petaluma, California; 2nd place Silver Distinction; Sole e Luna, sterling silver pin/pendant with curved spires set with freshwater pearls and citrines, and hand woven with fine silver and 18k wire. 9. Lisa Krikawa of Krikawa Jewelry Designs in Tucson, Arizona; 2nd place Mokume-gane Distinction; Mokume Curls, 14k palladium white gold and mokume-gane ring with mossanite and diamond accents. 10. Michele Bock of MelanieMichele Jewelry in Normal, Illinois; 2nd place Crystal Distinction; Star Chrysanthemum Hairpins. 11. Omri Adelson Dejano of New York City; 2nd place Platinum Distinction; Forever Love, convertible brooch/pendant made of cobalt platinum with a trillion-cut diamond, natural blue sapphire cabochons, and diamond accent. 12. Steve Midgett of Earthshine Mokume Inc. in Franklin, North Carolina; 1St place; Mokume-gane Distinction; Shell form brooch in 18k yellow and red gold mokume-gane with pink Belizean conch pearl and diamonds. 13. Todd Reed of Todd Reed Inc. in Boulder, Colorado; 1st place; Silver Distinction; 18k gold, 22k gold, and sterling silver hand-forged pin with patina, large raw diamond cube, and brilliant-cut diamonds. 14. Vache Minassian of Golden Link of NJ. in New York City; Hororable Mention CAD/CAM Distinction; 18k white and yellow gold reversible bracelet with blue, yellow, and pink sapphires, and diamonds. 15. 18k yellow gold wire necklace, set with diamonds, varying sizes of white and pink freshwater pearls, and a large white baroque pearl. 16. Reversible pendant-three-dimensional abstract flower, with diamonds and colored sapphires. |
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| For
more than two decades, young goldsmiths who participate in the Prix Golay contest have presented unconventional and often flabbergasting creations to the world of jewellery. This year's crop goes magic. |
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When we chose the theme Talisman', we couldn't imagine that it would trigger such an avalanche of ideas!" That was the opening comment of the contest manager, Stefan Bodmer, at the Prix Golay 2005 award ceremony at BASELWORLD, the world watch and jewellery fair. The young goldsmiths' creations are indeed thrillers for both, eyes and emotions. Conceived by youthful minds, they are state of the art executions, thanks to the creators' sound vocational training. "Encouraging young talents is the essence of the contest's fascination", points out Stefan Bodmer. "They have reached a high level of craftsmanship, but they are not pressured by commercial considerations as yet, nor restricted by professional routine. Their creations seduce experienced goldsmiths as much as jewellery lovers in quest for the unusual." This year, the participants received 10 keshi pearls of various colours, to create a talisman. Their imagination was visibly inspired by the great variety of ideas people have about good-luck charms. The members of the jury, confirmed jewellery professionals, naturally focused on objective considerations like innovation, technical quality and comfort in wearing the pieces, but personal subjectiveness took over when they came to evaluate the interpretation of the given theme. In this respect, the creations furnished plenty of food for discussion. That is a good sign for pieces of jewellery that are expected to touch the heart as mur as the eye. |
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Unveiled at the Base! trade
fair, fih-iis ttsiy c collection of talismans will be featured at public
exhibitioi throughout the year, and it is shown on the website www.golay.com,
Prix Golay 2005, where the creators' drawini and explanations accompany
the photographs, alongv more detailed information on the contest. This exposure provides the young goldsmiths with a first public showcase and possibly with a stepping stotii to a successful career. In addition to the keshi pearls, personal certificate and the contest experience, each oneol this year's participants also receives a purchasing voucher in the value of 50.- Swiss francs, offered by "artsuppofi in Zurich, suppliers of a comprehensive range of tools for goldsmiths. A nice gesture by a company that is itself still young. The jury awarded six creations. That is two more than usual. By having two winners ex aequo share the Technical Prize and by attributing for the first time a special mention, the jury members found an elegant way of easing some of the pain they felt when eliminating interesting creations from the awards. They designated the following winners. |
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Grand Prize, awarded with 4'000 Swiss francs Creation by Christof Kaderli Bijoux Stadelmann in Bern, Schule fur Gestaltung Bern Round and flat, this talisman slides into any pocket or purse, to accompany its mistress everywhere. Combined with a silk scarf, it becomes a pendent. Fingertips love to caress the hollow shapes carved into the dark wood. They can use the grip to turn the two sides in opposite directions, so white rays swing out to show the pearls. The mechanism and shapes are so smooth that it's a pleasure to activate the movement again and again, while the visual variety and lustre of the keshi pearls amplify the intimate communication with the talisman. This is a real fetish. Worn as a pendent, it can be shown discretely or predominantly, or hidden, as it adapts to any mood and clothing. Technical Prize ex aequo, awarded with 1'000 Swiss francs Creation by Sabine Verzasconi Ecole d'art des Montagnes neuchtteloises in La Chaux-de-Fonds This is an original necklace that hides its treasure? inside. Placed upside down on a discrete stand, the pe> dent opens like a flower. Its heart, permanently attache: to the string, is a pendulum. The foot of each leaf of th flower is a spherical chamber containing a keshi pearl whose lustre is beautifully reflected in the fully polish surface. The pearls move freely in their open showcase and all the parts reassemble to become the pendent again firmly secured without need to activate any locking system Minute magnets hold the leaves closed. |
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Technical Prize ex aequo, awarded with 1 '000 Swiss francs Creation by Remo Huppi Bolli Goldschmied in St.Gallen, Schule fur Gestaltung St.Gallen This is a reproduction of serotonin, the hormone of happiness. Keshi pearls represent the hydrogen atoms, silver balls of various surfaces the other atoms of the substance. They are connected by carbon fibre sticks. Thanks to an amazing combination of complicated movements, notches and click joints built into the silver balls, the setup can be laid out to represent the hormone, or folded to turn into a solid and lightweight bangle with an expressive, feminine character. Showcased as a hormone or worn as a piece of jewellery, it's always the serotonin that provides the talisman's magic power. Conceptual Prize, awarded with 2'000 Swiss francs Creation by Ueli Rogger l Goldschmied Lux in St.Gallen, Schule fur Gestaltung St.Gallen The pearls featured on those T-shirts represent stellar constellations. Orion, symbol of life and power,is placed on the upper arm, Taurus, symbol of light and love on the heart, Virgo, symbol of fertility and harvest, on the stomach, and Aquila, the eagle, on the back, to proier. from dangers coming from behind. Detachable and interchangeable, the keshi pearls are mounted on snaps. Wef exposed on the tissue, they can also be attached uncte-neath, to transmit their magical power in direct contact wit the skin |
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Special Prize
of the Jury, awarded with 2'000 Swiss francs Creation by Anne-Marie Regez 1 Goldschmied Beat Lehmann in Basel, Schule fur Gestatung Basel Like a human ovum, a pearl develops in the dark until it sees the light of day. This "handpalm-caressing" shell, source of fertility, is a gift to a mother-to-be. When her child is born, she opens the shell to visualize the but of both, her baby and the two keshi pearls inside. With a fine chain pulled out of two small openings, the talisman becomes a necklace. Turning the pearls in the sensed the two artfully chased spirals will roll the chain up again. so the shell can be closed. The talisman is now used to "caress" the palm, to decorate a table top, or as a piece of jewellery. Special Mention Creation by Chrystel Clement Ecole d'art des Montagnes neuchateloises in La Chaux-de-Fonds This creation triggers great curiosity. It is a prediction flask. It contains all the keshi pearls that are introduced through the opening at the top, each one being marked with a number of metallic points. Well mixed, they can be extracted one by one, by activating the black ball at the bottom. Adding up the number of points of three pearls will indicate the number, under which the prediction of the day can be found on the list rolled out of the cylindric container. The whole set-up can be worn in many different ways, well in sight, as a conversation piece, or discretely hidden under the clothing, as an intimate talisman. |
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| Facettes Collection | ||
| Entrancing, mysterious,
radiant, poetic, disturbing... beauty illuminates all the women of the
world. Since 2004, Audemars Piguet has been celebrating the Femmes du
monde, in all their wide diversity of expression and in alt their facets.
Facets with profound and ever-changing reflections, mirrored in an exquisite
jewellery-watch creation: Facettes. Pure lines A subtle design, pure lines: Facettes adopts an elongated rectangular shape for its case, which is interpreted in harmony with the bezel theme. The case .features a central ridge, echoed by the shape of the bevel-cut sapphire crystal, and also by the raised surface of the wristband featuring a central "pleat". Thanks to this interplay of parallel lines and opposing surfaces, the watch is characterised by a clear-cut structure with extremely refined proportions. |
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| A) 18-carat white gold case set with 32"Baguette-cut
pastel-pink sapphires (3.20 carats), engraved mother-of-pearl dial, white
technological satin strap and 18 Carat white gold case set with 58 brilliant-cut
diamonds (1.55 carats) , diamond-pave dial, black technological satin strap. B) 18-carat yellow gold case set with 58 brilliant-cut diamonds (1.55 carats) mother -of-pearl dial, chocolate brown technological satin strap. C) 18-carat white gold case set with 32 black baguette-cut sapphires (3.20 carats), engraved mother-of-pearl dial, black technogical satin strap. D) Case and bracelet in 18-carat white gold entirely set with 192 baguette-cut diamonds (25.15 carats). |
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Subtle gem-setting Grafted in either white or yellow gold, the case is enhanced by precious stones set in a very subtle manner. Each woman may thus choose the Facettes that most resembles her: a case set with brilliant-cut diamonds, or a case set with baguette-cut diamonds or sapphires, exalting the design of the watch and giving sparkling cadence to its lines. Offering a choice of colours, Facettes opts for a fresh look with yellow or pastel-pink sapphires, or for the extreme sophistication of black sapphires. Whatever the chosen shade, it is echoed and delicately emphasised by the silky-soft technological satin strap. Framed by this case, the dial is either smooth and rimmed with a fine band adorned with four diamonds, or checkerboard-engraved to match the rhythm of the baguette-cut precious stones on the case. |
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Brilliant or baguette? And because its geometrical nature offers great freedom in terms of gem-setting, Facettes also comes in two "Haute Joaill-erie" versions: the first dedicated to brilliant-cut diamonds, and the second to baguette-cut diamonds.On each of these creations, the paving on the dial and the case is delicately extended along the bevelled links of the bracelet with its broken lines that emphasize the volume of the watch. Indeed, the various forms of Facettes watches thus appear to be "cut" just like the precious stones that embellish them. The diamonds used for setting Audemars Piguet watches are all of Top Wesselton IF (Internally Flawless) quality; the sapphires are natural. Each watch is delivered with a certificate specifying the number, the quality and the weight of the precious stones. |
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| Danae' Collection | ||
An ancient goddess embodying
beauty and desire, Danae was celebrated by poets and painters. Today,
she has become the source of inspiration for an astonishing watch offering
fascinating glimpses of its precious nature between a delightfully coloured
dial and a diamond-set openworked cover. A subtle play on light, like
an enchanted hymn to the games of seduction... |
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Like a
secret box Movement |
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| Harry Connick Jr. to be Longines' new 'elegance' icon; Elini plans two Paris Hilton watch lines | ||
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Rai signed
earlierthis yearand is already in some marketing materials. The addition
of Connick will be formally announced in New York in May. The agreement
is with Parlux Fragrances Inc., which has an exclusive license to produce
her line of fragrances and other accessories. |
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| Cartier | ||
(A) Haute
Joaillerie Declaration watch: 18-carat white gold case, set with 1-carat
solitaire diamond. Mobile 18-carat white gold rings set with round and
baguette-cut diamonds. Dial set with round diamonds. Bracelet: 18-carat
white gold, set with round and baguette-cut diamonds and rock crystal.
Quartz movement. (B) Diagonale De Cartier Watch: 18-carat yellow gold case quartz movement, set with round diamonds, Silver grained dial with Beige toile poudree strap. 18-carat yellow gold tongue buckle, set with round diamonds. |
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(c) Cartier Feline Watch: Case quartz
movement and dial in 18-carat yellow, black lacquer and round diamonds.
Black silk cord, 18-carat yellow gold bobbles with black lacquer and round
diamonds (D) Large Enamel Tank Chinoise Watch: 18-carat yellow gold case with panther motif. Dial and case feature champleve enameling, set with round diamonds. Mechanical movement with manual winding 430 MC caliber. Black alligator strap |
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