Last issues
Vol. 29 No. 6 - JANUARY 2016
Kristal Diamonds President Princcetta TM
Surat Diamond Bourse Delayed
New Diamond Testing Machine
Forevermark Forum Maps Diamonds Future
Celebrity Eyes Russia Diamond Mines
Italian Gardens Inspire Bulgari's New Collection

Etourdissant : Cartier's Dazzling Display

Brisk Business at IDE Polished Diamond Fair
Kristal Diamonds President Princcetta TM
      Kristal Diamonds' team of jewel designers have produced a unique engagement ring which is set by 2 centre diamonds "The PrinceTM cut and the Princess cut"

      The exclusivity of this ring is by combining a square diamond and an oblong one. The PrinceTM cut   which is presented by Kristal Diamonds is an improvement to the traditional emerald cut diamond and it is a result of a long research process. Its advantage is by producing even higher levels of sparkle and fire effects and a complete vision of the kaleldoscope which appears when you manipulate the stone towards light.

      The Prince cut benefits from 111 facets instead of the ordinary 58 facets in the traditional emerald cut. The facets were placed professionally at the right points and angels resulting in a sparking and lively appearance.

      The Princess cut which was also developed after a long research and optical exercise offers the unique combination between a polished diamond and a square diamond, resulting in the full fire, life and sparkle which are visible from any possible angle without having any dark areas.
      The ring was developed by using a special 3D design software which combines in an optimal way the square and the ablong diamonds set in one ring . Hence, the motto of "When the prince met the princess" is combined within this special ring.

      Kristal Diamonds have registered the name "Princcetta TM which is the English combination of the Prince and Princess cut.

      Mr, I.M Kristal, owner and partner of Kristal Diamonds, explains how he thoughts about this saphisticated idea: "The idea about creating a ring which will combine the 2 types about creating a ring which will combine the 2 types of polishing was born in my mind, when I saw Prince William and his royal spouse Kate standing in front of the public balcony of Buckingham palace minutes after their impressive marriage ceremony. I thought to myself "How can I commemorate this historical moment?" The combination of the Prince and Princess is the right and long lasting answer.

      Kristal Diamonds was formed in 1983. A family owned company, their main activity is production and commerce in diamonds and fine jewellery. The ownn ideas or to match the customer's order. The company uses the latest technology which is activated by a prefesstional learn yielding top quality products.
De Beers' to Stimulate Diamond Sales
      Underscoring the importance it places on diamond branding. De Beers Group has announced a "major investment" in advertising for the Christmas-New Year trading period.

      One campaign, entitled it's a Long Journey Become the One , promotes the company's Forevermark brand, with the overall message said highlighy the "rigorous selection process" of a Foreevermark diamond , Spanning a range of advertising mediums, the campaign includes a short advertising mediums, the campaign includes a short film-style television commercial, print advertisements as well as social media promotion using the hashtag# The one. It also marks the return of the Iconic 'A diamond is foreover slogan.

      In addition, the company will launch a separate marketing campaign, Seize the Day, to generate increased consumer demand for the diamond jewellery category over the Christmas season. It will feature "classic" diamond products such as solitaire rings and necklaces.

      While the initiative includes some De Beers branding. It's essentially a generic marketing strategy. which could be considered interesting given De Beers ceased its generic diamond advertising and marketing in 2000.

      De Beers Seize the Day campaign will target men purchasing diamond jewellery as gift for partners in two of the world's largest markets, the US and China. A Company spokesperson said the campaign would begin in late November in the US and run across print and digital as well as in areas such as a transport hubs and billboards in "select high-impact markets".

      'This campaign will also include the 'A diamond is forever' slogan, and it will also include used to have a sign-off from De Beers," The spokesperson said.

      'We are delight to add these new initiatives to our existing Foreevermark activities over the holiday season. "De Beers chief executive Philippe Meller commented. "This will help to stimulate doanstream demand for polished diamonds and create renewed momentum in the diamond sector at a crucial point in the year."

      De Beers has long been championing branding and advertising as two areas of which the diamond industry needs to take advantage. De Beers CEO Phillippe Meller last year said he believed branding represented a "huge opportunity" for the grownth of the diamond industry.

      "An increase in the number of emotionally significant branded products in the diamond retail sector has the potential to provide the oxygen for a new age of prospetty and grownth in the industry, in the same way that clothes, accessories and fragrannces have experienced flourishing demand as a result of brand compettition, "he saiod"

Good trade at DDC Israel Diamond Week

     The fourth Israel Diamond Week saw around 100 Israel bouse members visiting the trading floor at the Diamond Dealers Club of New York (DDC). Business was said to be quite brisk, with flexible priing being a catalyst for successful deals. However, one source commented that "there are always buyers who want goods on the memo and wha expect unreasonable discounts.

      Israel traders noted that were new was healthy demand for large stones, and typical "American" commercial goods, ofeten retail jewel staples, traded beyond expectations.

      Reuben Kaufmen, president of the DDC, said at the opening ceremony that although the global diamond market is not performing well., there are positive signs in the US market and economy that are a cause for optimism for a successful holiday season.
3.09 carat Lab-Grown Diamond
     Diamond growers continue to be able to increase the size of the stones they produce, as most recently was ilustrated by a 3.09 carat diamond graded by HRD Antwerp.

     The Diamond was grown using the CVD, or chemical vapour deposition, process, meaning it was created in a specially developed growing chamber using a carbon-rich gas. CVD lab-grown diamond are created without the presence of nitrogen, therefore the resulting stone will always be a type lia or type lib diamond.

     This diamond was grown using the CVD, or chemical vapour deposition, process, meaning it was created in a specially developed growing chamber using a carbon-rich gas. CVD lab-grown diamond are created without the presence of nitrogen, therefore the resulting stone will always be a type lia or type lib diamond.

     This particular 3.09 carat stone is a brillant-cut diamond with a grade of slightly tinted white (1) and a clarity of VS2, the lab said.

     Previously, the largest lab-grown diamond reported was a nearly colourless 3.04 carat round diamond cultivated by Pure Grown Diamonds (formerly Gemesis) late last year. That diamond has a price tag of $23,012.

     Lab-grown diamonds have become more and more typical in industry news in the past few years, as growers have improved their techniques, particularly as it pertain to while diamonds, and more mainstream chairs have started selling them.
Diamond Screening Services in Shanghai

     Diamond Services will begin offering lab-grown screening services in Shanghai following the Instilation of a mini Raman spectrometer at state-owned gem lab NGGC.

     The spectrometer is able to accurately detect HPHT and CVD lab-grown diamonds and HPHT colour-treated diamonds, as well as diamond simulants.

     "Our goal is to expand the servicea being provided by NGGC by providing definitive and rapid confirmation as to whether a diamond is synthetic or not," said Joseph Kuzi, Diamond is synthetic or not," said Joseph Kuzi, Diamond Services' founder and president, "Chinese traders will no longer have to withdraw suspect goods from circulation for lengthy period of time, before they can be examined properly using the appropriate equipment. At NGGCC we will be able to examine a stone immediately, and provide a final decision."

      The desktop-sized mini Raman spectrometer can test both mounted and non-mounted stones, and deliver its results in an easy-to-read and interpret format.
Rising Inventory Hopeful Expectations
By Avi Krawitz
     As always, there's an air of anticipation ahead of the holiday season, even if diamond trading is well below levels usually associated with this time of year. Diamond dealers expect that positive U.S. economic trends will raise consumer confidence to spend and influence jewellers to place stronger orders in 2016. Furthermore, recently announced marketing campaigns by Signet Jewelers and De Beers Forevermark have raised expectations that the season will at least exceed 2014's lacklustre performance. That's the good news. But as De Beers acknowledged in a note to sightholders. "Where we have traditionally seen a firming up of polished diamond demand as anticipate potential for the same this year as our additional marketing spend gains traction with consumers, we fully appreaciate that the midstream continues to face challengers".

     Certainly, polished trading was quiet for October with demand largely geared to filling orders rather than building Inventory. Dearlers explained that stead U.S. demand on its own is not sufficient to boost trading or to fully compensive for the slowdown in China. Expectations that Asia Pacific Trading might improve after the September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair faded in the weeks that followed as demand from the region's major retailers continued to be reserved.
     Chow Tai Fook noted that retail market sentiment was unimpressive as the group's gem-set jewellery same-stone sales slis 13 percent during its fiscal quarter that ended September 30. Furthermore, jewellery sales in general were weak
Italian Gardens Inspire Bulgari's New Collection

     From the Belvedere in the Vatican to Villa d'Este in Tivoli and the Boboli Gardens in Fiorence, Italian gardens are imbused with Renaissance traditions, bending nature to create works of art. For its latest collection , Bulgari found inspiration in the geometric precision and architectural complexity of these gardens to bring out their most evocative elements using precious stones.

       Like the Renaissance architects, Bulgari's designers took nature not as a model to be reproducted, but as an interlocutor with art. Named "Italian Gardens," the 100 pieces collection emulates the artful decorative boxwood hedges and flowerbeads that came to prominence during the Renaissance, as gardens were tamed and their contours redefined transforming nature into "a work born of man" with and artistically arranged flowerbeds and trees and shrubs pruned to create evergreen 'sculptures'.
       The designs of these Renaissance gardens is most evidant in the Geometry of Time watches that Incorporate geomatric marquetry of mother of pearl, diamonds, and semi-adaptable necklace can be separated into a brooch and worn with or without the tassel. Fountains also inspired the Water Symphony necklace which sports a central 45.57 carat sapphire surrounded by flowing ribbons of diamonds, another transformable piece that forms a bracelet and brooch.

  Colourful flowers were another main strand of inspiration for this collection, which uses rubellite, tanzanite, citrine, amethyst, and aquamarine to create flamboyant Pop Art flowers, befiting the Bulgari brand's bold style.

     Paying tribute to Renaissance master Sandro Botticelli's Allegory of Spring. Bulgari has also recreated a vintage 1969 piece, using diamonds, pearls, and coral an yellow gold to create a stunning margueritte necklace , with the brilliant diamond centre brought to life thanks to an 'en tremblant setting.
Etourdissant : Cartier's Dazzling Display
     Last month, in an extraordinary villa in Cap d'Antibes, South of France, Cartier's new high jewellery collection Etourdissant (literally "dazzling" or "stunning") was displayed across several airy rooms, along with examples of the maison's fine jewellery and archival pieces.
      HIgh jewellery is supposed to be particularly special - one of a kind pieces that pay tritute to a maison's heritage but are entirely singular and never to be repeated. The Etourdissant collection couldn't be more true to the concept. Rather than running with a motif, Cartier has simply taken the most dazzing materials and created mesmerisingly beautiful jewels. The belle of this ball was the a Romanov bracelet, a diamond cuff sporting a colossal 197.80 carat cushion -being worn by the become the Empress of Russia. One of Cartier's press got to see it, meaning this important stone will soon disappear again into private - and very fortunale - hands.

      A transformable Hyderabad piece, which can be worn as a bracelet or choker, as well as a super luxurious take on the bohemian forehead-wrapping headband, came in the iconic Tutti-Fruitti stones - carved emeralds at its centre. This mix of colourful stones was seen in other shades, like in the Pushkar earrings, which blended carved garnets of orange and green with purple tanzanites and diamonds helmed by two smooth black opals, cabochon cut and set in white gold and diamonds.

      A particular type of coral appeared across two large bracelets and rings. The Flamboyant cuff pitched this reddy-orange material against black onyx and white diamonds, while the Teinte bracelet blended it with milky green chrysoprase and onyx - the mix of red and green a particullar hallmark of the masion.

      That Iconic knot, seen of Cartier since its earliest days, appeared in the Garance necklace, a boldly proportioned piece blending rubies from Mozambique and Burma with diamonds, styled as though casually knotted at the throat.

      But it wasn't all about the four most precious gemstones: diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald. There were exquisite examples where the starring gem was a pale, glowing opal from Ethopia, as in the Ete Indien bracelet, surrounded by swirls of garnets, tsavorite, coloured sapphires and diamonds, all picking up the delicate nuances of colour within the central stone. The Arabica bracelet didn't even have a large gem as a centre-piece - instead, it featured dozens of elongated piece - instead. It featured dozen of elongated garnet beads in a pale shade of cranberry, tipped garnet beads in a pale shade of chanberry, tipped with diamond and ruby beads and arranged on an articulated cuff of brown and white diamonds.

      It's to cartier's credit that its craftmen can create these extraordinary pieces out of such an array of material - from huge, important sapphires with a royal past, to tiny garnet beads named for the coffee beans their shape evokes.
East Meets West for High Art
By Phyllis Schller
     A magical meldind of east and west, tutti frutti jewellery artfully incorporated the textual coloured gemstones of Magul jewelllery artfully incorporated the textural coloured gemstones of Magul jewellery into a variation on the Art Deco theme, introduced by Cartier at the Paris exposition of 1925. The rich and fashion-forward of the day gravitated to this exuberant style, decorated with what were called pierres de couleur of coloured stones. The term "tutil frutti" was coined later, believed to be based on the colourful costume worn by Carmen Miranda when she sang "The Lady in the Tutti Frutti Hat" in the 1943 movie, "The Gang's All Here."

     As the popularity of the style increased, so did the number of makers, including, so did the number of makers, including Van Cleef & Arpels and Mauboussin, points out Janet Levy, principal, J, & S.S. DeYoung, Inc., New York City, in America, Raymont C. Yard and Charlton & Co., among others, made fine jewels in this style. "Tutti frutti became a style that appealed to jewellers," says jewel historian Janet Zapata, But, she says, "Cartier did it best,"

    Indian Influence
    In 1901, Pierre Cartier was commissioned by Queen Alexandra of England to design a necklace for her to wear with three Indian gowns that she received as a gift from Mary Curzon, the wife of the Viceroy of India. In 1911, a trip to india introduced Jacques Cartier, who oversaw the firm's London branch, to the beauty of Mogul jewellery's richly hued engraved rubies and emeralds in the shapes of leaves, blossoms and berries. And the rest is jewel design history.

    "After the First World War, people were ready to enjoy themselves during the Roaring Twentties," explains Levy, who says most of the tutti frutti jewellery she sees dates from 1925 to 1930, "During this period, Indian maharajahs were travelling to Paris to have their jewels refashioned. This inspired Cartier and other jewellers to create new pieces using carved rubies and emeralds in vibant and expressive designs."

    Ann Lange, senior vice president, executive director, jewel department, Doyle New York, points out. "The Indian custom was that when you pass jewellery down to the next generation, you remake it. And this is how Cartier started working with the carved coloured stones."

    Something Different
    Before tutti frutti, continues Lange, jewellery was very geometric and more predictable in design. "This new style had a certain exoticism. it represented a little bit of a rebellion. The combination and cut of gems made an impact, adding another dimension."

    "Worn by very wealthy, very stylish women, the tutti frutti jewellery always had a cachet, it made a statement," says Zapata, It was something different from the very flat and recttinear early Art Deco. "There are coloured gemstones that are leaves, berries etc., that give it a dimensionally and a dimensionally andva different colour palette than what had gone before,"   

    In addition to an exuberant use of colour, says Carol Elkins, senior vice president, Sotheby's jewellery department, it is the artful designs of these multigem jewels, along with the excellent craftmanship, that make the style so desired by collectors today. "No two are alike. The layouts for the bracelets were metlculous worked on, painstakingly for hours at a time. The variations in colour schemes - whethers predominantly rubies and emeralds, or a combination of rubies, sapphires, emeralds and onyx-each has its own apeal. The partterns and motifs drew upon a rich heritage of Indian and fair Eastern design elements from centuries past. These jewels are symbols of status and refined taste."

    Most descriptions of the stones use the word "carved" but, explains Zapata. "they are emgraved, the gems chosen more for their hues than value." it's not the sum of the parts but the artisty of the whole that give them their worth, in the same way point andcanvas don't command millions until used by a master to create a work of art.
      A Lasting Appeal

      The popularity of the jewellery has continued through the decades and people are willing to pay a premium price to own it. At Sotheby's New York in 2014, Evelyn Lauder's Cartier tutti frutti bracelet achieved a record $2.1 million. This past April, a pair of Art Deco tutti frutti earclips by Cartier sold for $185,000 at Doyle New York, more than three times the presale high estimate.

      "The prices have certainly been amazing," says Lange. One reason, she says, is there's not that much of this jewellery around, "Most of the pieces we've seen lately have been held in families. And what motivates buyers to such a degree is that they're fresh to the market. Moreover, the rarity and importance of the Cartier name significantly increases value and attracts global interest,"

      Cartier tutti frutti jewels do not appear in the market very often, points out Elkins. "A finite number were made, while the number of newly minted billionaires seeking such treasures seems to be ever increasing. When comparing prices fetched for certain categories of paintings, these rare jewels would seem undervalued."

      "Whenever we get tutti frutti jewellery," says Levy, "We're always excited about it. The intricacy of the design pulls you in. It's really a high art form."

      It's an ageless style, sums up Zapata, "It will always have appeal. Fifty years from now, whatever the prices are today, add another zero."


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